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Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park

[Sadly I have run out of time to get pictures into this blog post – I’ll add some when we get back. That seems important even though it’s 3 months from now.]

Tuesday, November 6, a big day for the United States, had us up early in the morning and into downtown Moab for coffee and internet at Red Rock Bakery. As the morning progressed we ventured into Canyonlands National Park at Island in the Sky and Grand View Point, a beautiful 2mile trail overlooking the canyons, then White Rim Trail, a 1.8mile trail to another canyon overlook. Other quick stops included the Black Canyon Overlook, the Green River Overlook, and an uphill 0.8mile hike to an Upheaval Dome overlook.

Upheaval Dome looks like a 1,500 foot deep crater but is actually a dome, either caused by a meteor hitting the Earth or salt deposits pushing up from below. Other park highlights included Mesa Arch, a long thin arch on the edge of a canyon where I sat to contemplate life for a while. We spent the evening with a quick drive through Arches National Park for sunset, with stops at a Delicate Arch view point, Panorama Point and Balanced Rock. We had dinner that night at Eddie McStiff’s in Moab, then booked a hotel room for a change of pace and election night results viewing.

The next morning was a slow one for us, with brunch at the Pancake Haus, a grocery stop, and a very nice Laundromat. We made our way back to Arches National Park for further viewing and the Devil’s Garden Trail to Landscape Arch which towers on a hill and is over 300 feet long. We also stopped at the Fiery Furnace Overlook, the lower Delicate Arch viewpoint (the arch on Utah license plates), Balanced Rock, and made our way to the Windows section of the park for North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch at sunset. We found a misplaced phone in the parking lot which we returned to the visitor’s center, then headed towards I-70 east and Colorado, stopping at a rest stop to cook some pasta with sandwiches before staying in Grand Junction, CO that night.

On our first day in Colorado we made our way to a few breweries including Crazy Mountain Brewery in Edwards, Backcountry Brewery in Frisco (coffee stout), and Tommy Knocker in Idaho Springs (maple nut brown). There were skiers on the mountains visible from the highway before we arrived in the Denver area, then headed north to Longmont and the Left Hand Brewery and Avery Brewing Co in Boulder. We stayed in a Boulder WalMart that night where the overnight parking lot cleaning machine enjoyed doing doughnuts in the wee hours of the morning.

Friday was our day in Rocky Mountain National Park where we drove to Bear Lake and hiked the 3.6mile trail to Emerald Lake, passing Nymph Lake and Dream Lake on the somewhat icy trail. The scenery was beautiful and the weather was gorgeous but eventually we made our way to Fort Collins and the New Belgium Brewery to taste a mole stout and chocolate stout in their crowded but energetic tasting room (dogs were even drinking beer inside). Our next stop was Odell Brewing Co for a taster flight and pint glass purchase before heading south to Denver to meet a friend, Allen, from WashU at the Denver Beer Company (pumpkin ale and chocolate stout). A guy in the bar next to us was painting a hops design on a snow board as we drank but we eventually pulled ourselves away and ended the evening at My Brother’s Bar.

What city is complete without an REI, so we stopped in on the Denver store, then went across the street to the Wilderness Exchange and GoLite stores, then Patagonia. We walked down 16th Street in the sleet, then headed northwest to Arvada to meet my cousin Kim and her husband Paul for lunch. We spent a few hours catching up and laughing with them over pizza and a large cookie, then headed south to our second REI of the day in Englewood. We stayed that night with friends Bill and Cori and their lively kiddos in Louisville, CO (it’s confusing, I know) and shared conversation and good wine before sleep.

We were up early the next morning in preparation for our long drive to St. Louis, and were delayed slightly by the snow on I-70 which had closed the interstate temporarily overnight, but made our through eastern Colorado and Kansas. A quick stop at the Free State Brewery in Lawrence, Kansas for a delicious oatmeal stout showed us a bar I’d like to return to someday. Later that night we arrived in Belleville, IL and Tina’s lovely, welcoming house. The last day of our trip was relaxing, as we read and ate pumpkin whoopee pies at Tina’s, then had lunch with her before heading east to our final destination, Louisville, Kentucky.

We spent the evening with some amazingly wonderful friends we had missed tremendously, Abby, Alison, and Brad, and felt at home.  It was nice to not have to consult a map for directions, and to see familiar faces, and to know that at least for a few weeks we were home with people that were important to us and that we loved. Home!


Portland brewery fun

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

After making our way down Highway 101 on the west side of Washington, mostly in the rain, we arrived safe and sound in Portland, Oregon on October 12 at the home of Jamie and Phil, wonderful friends who took us in for the weekend. They share our love of interesting beer, so Saturday, after watching some football (it starts early on the west coast!) we visited a few breweries.

Our 9 beer tastes at Upright Brewery

At the HUB on Friday night the bartender recommended we try Upright Brewery where we made our own table out of a beer barrel and sampled all 9 of their beers (sample size, not pints) including a tasty hopless lemon grass concoction. We then made our way downtown to a Deschutes Brewpub location, with a roaring fireplace, tasty dinner, and more new beer. Just down the street was an REI location, so Adam wandered for a while, actually making a purchase this visit. We then headed out to the Rock Creek McMenamins, a really cool tavern that was built out of timbers from old barns, one dating back to the late 1800s. They had live music, a patio, and a dark beer that Adam couldn’t see through, his favorite.

Old Salmon River Trail

On Sunday Phil made us a tasty brunch at home and I got to watch a bit more football, no Bengals, however. The rain was holding off so the four of us packed the car and headed towards Mount Hood, stopping first at the Old Salmon River Trail for a really nice wooded hike along the Salmon River. Phil and Adam talked fly fishing while Jamie, Stuie, and I caught up on the river bank. We then ventured further up the mountain to the Mt Hood lodge, Timberline. Most of the mountain was hidden in fog but we enjoyed a beer at the Rams Head, then made our way back down to Government Camp and the Mt Hood Brewing Co. for beer and pizza. A tasty end to a fun day outside.

Monday was a day of errands like mailing things and picking up supplies. A trip to Portand wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Voodoo Doughnut for some maple bacon doughy love. Tasty! I also tried an Oreo peanut butter doughnut which was fabulous too. It’s a good thing Adam doesn’t like sweets too much, or his fingers might have disappeared.

The smell of beer brewing drew us in to Widmer Brewery during happy hour. We shared a pint of their signature Hefeweizen and a cup of beer cheese soup, both perfect on a rainy afternoon. Later for dinner, Phil made a super tasty loaded grilled cheese and tomato basil soup and we watched The Hunger Games movie and did some laundry.

A tricky wave got me

It was hard to say goodbye to Jamie and Phil after such a fun, relaxing weekend, but Tuesday we headed to the Oregon coast and our first stop of Cannon Beach. We walked along the beach near Haystack Rock, dipping our toes (and sometimes our knees, unexpectedly) in the cold ocean water. The clouds overhead eventually dropped some rain, so we tucked into the Ecola Fish Market for some homemade clam chowder (with hot sauce, just as Adam likes it).

Driving south on Highway 101 the rain was on and off, so we stopped a few places but just drove by others including Oswald West State Park which had been recommended to us. We did stop at Three Arch Rock in Oceanside, then made an accidental loop back to Tillamook where we sampled some cheese at the Blue Heron French Cheese Company. We managed to catch a great view of the sunset over the ocean in the Pelican Breweryparking lot in Pacific City (see the link for a cool picture of the parking lot location), then headed inside to try their beer wares. We camped that night at the free Castle Rock campground in Suislaw National Forest, an unusual set up with one large tent area separated from the parking area.

Pelican Brewery parking lot

Wednesday brought beautiful coastal view points including a stop at Boiler Bay where the big waves crashed and sprayed multiple stories in the air. We ate our sandwiches in the car, much to the chagrin of the inquisitive sea gulls waiting patiently for crumbs. We also visited the Yaquina Head Lighthouseand saw dozens of birds in their nests on the sea stacks just off the coast. The wind didn’t stop the rocks from applauding on Cobble Beach, a unique beach feature that was hard to miss (as the water recedes from each wave, it ripples the large pebbles on the beach, creating a sound much like applause).

Cobble Beach

The Oregon coast is definitely beautiful and unique, so we stopped at Rogue Ale’s Brewers on the Bay for a taste of their Double Chocolate Stout, Baltic Porter, Mocha Porter, Smoke Ale, Chipotle Ale, and Shakes Ale, just a few of their selections on tap. Rogue also brews a Maple Bacon Ale, in coordination with Voodoo Doughnut, that apparently is tasty when used in pancake batter instead of water. I’ll have to try that sometime soon as the thought of maple and bacon flavors already in my pancakes sounds fabulous to me.

Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach

We then traveled inland to Eugene and Ninkasi Brewing Company, I think my favorite so far on the trip. Arriving at the tasting room we met Nikos, co-owner, and James, marketing director, who were staffing the TR that night so their staff could all hang out together. Seems like a really neat operation which has grown tremendously in just the last 7 years. They have some really cool metal work, all handmade by their friend and employee, on the beer taps, bar, and outdoor patio area. They also gave us a prototype of their soon-to-be-produced Ninkasi bottle opener which is super cool, plus stickers, info, and a parking lot to sleep in. Definitely a great stop and worth the trip to Eugene.

We got some car errands done in Eugene, then headed for Crater Lake National Park, definitely a favorite on the trip. Check our next post for our thoughts on Crater Lake!


Flying Fish

Olympic Sculpture Park, Seattle

Driving southwest on October 11 we rolled into Seattle on an overcast but not rainy day, stopping first at the REI flagship store, then heading to the very famous Pike Place Market where I managed to see some fish fly through the air although Adam didn’t so thought I was making the whole thing up. We wandered around taking in the sights and sounds, stopping at Beecher’s Handmade Cheese for a crusty grilled cheese and delicious tomato soup, then Three Girls Bakery for a cookie.

Seattle skyline from Kerry Park

Since it wasn’t raining we visited tiny Kerry Park for the impressive views of downtown Seattle and a quick drive through the Queen Anne neighborhood (hi Stacey!)

Fremont Brewery was our next stop for a Wet Hop IPA (we’ve been learning all sorts of things about beer) then made it to Olympic Sculpture Park for a colorful sunset over the Puget Sound.

The car ferry to Bainbridge Island in the dark was quite an experience. We made our way up to the open top deck as the large ship slipped through the cold evening, 30 minutes to the far side and our drive northwest to Port Angeles, WA for the night.

Stream, Hall of Mosses trail

The Olympic Peninsula brought our first real rain of the trip, starting in the morning as we drove along Hwy 101 in Olympic National Park. Lake Crescent was a shimmering blue, formed long ago by a glacier pushing through the area. We hiked from the Hoh Rainforest visitor’s center along the Hall of Mosses trail and the enormous trees provided shelter from the rain. I guess it’s only appropriate that it was gently raining in the temperate rain forest. A park volunteer encouraged us to look for the baby Coho salmon along the trail, and there they were, slender and about 2 inches long, hiding out amongst the brilliant green river plants.

Hall of Mosses trail

The rain fell a bit harder as we left the Hoh area so we didn’t linger too long on rocky Ruby Beach but it was still wonderful to be next to the ocean. Waves, sea stacks, driftwood and large pebbles provided plenty for Adam to photograph as I just stared at the ocean for a while. Water has always been very restorative for me. Perhaps its my Cancer sign, perhaps it’s the rhythm and beauty, power and simplicity of the element, but it always puts me at ease.

Ruby Beach sea stacks

Ahead of us was a few hundred miles to Portland in the rain but our wonderful friends, Jamie and Phil, were waiting at the end. We spent some time catching up with them, then all ventured to the HUB (Hopworks Urban Brewery), a Portland brewery where the bartender gave us recommendations for others to try in the area. More from Portland soon!